Tammy Silver

How to draft a sleeve block

Tammy Silver — Wed, 22 Feb 2023 15:16:23 +0000

Sleeve block: How to start pattern drafting

As part of my pattern drafting series, I continue with a sleeve tutorial. I will show you how to draft a sleeve pattern from from scratch using your own body measurements. Creating your own blocks are a great way to ensure your garments fits you perfectly. Once your block is complete, you can then hack your pattern to sew any style you like.

Remember learning something for the first time can be tricky, but enjoy the process!

Tools you will need

Pattern paper
Measuring tape
Pencil
Ruler
(Optional) Frech curve; this is a curved ruler that is used to draw round shapes such as the sleeve cap area in a pattern. Personally, I don’t use this very often and you can definitely follow this tutorial without it.

Body measurements

Shoulder to elbow

Bicep circumference

Shoulder to wrist

Wrist circumference

Note: I use this as my wrist measurement so when I sew my sleeves, it will fit through my hand.

Before you start

You probably would have noticed with shop-bought patterns, the instructions will say; “cut on the fold”. If a sewing pattern is the same on both sides, it can be divided in half lengthwise along the centre and cut on the fold of your fabric. So after you’ve un-folded your fabric, you’ll end up with the full pattern piece.

In this project, you will start by drafting the sleeve block on the fold. Once the pattern is completed, you will then make small adjustments to the sleeve cap. This is because the shape for the front and back sleeve will have a different curvature to accommodate the slope on your shoulder area.

This block is a fitted sleeve pattern designed for non-stretch fabrics. Pattern ease is not included in this tutorial and the sleeve will therefore fit very closely to the arm. Once the block is complete, you can then add ease or adjust to suit stretch fabrics.

After you’ve drafted the sleeve block, you can then add your sewing allowance.

Sleeve block tutorial

On your pattern paper, mark your shoulder – Point A and draw a straight horizontal line to Point B. The length of this line is your bicep circumference.

Next, measure the distance from your shoulder to your wrist. From Point A draw a vertical line to Point C, this is your sleeve length.

Draw a horizontal line from Point C to Point D to mark the wrist. For now, this line is the same length as Point A to Point B.

The Cap Height of the sleeve is the distance from the shoulder to the base of the underarm. Measure this distance, then draw a vertical line from Point A down to Point E.

Next, divide your bicep circumference by 2.

Formula: bicep circumference ÷ 2 = E to F

Starting from the centre fold line, Point E draw a horizontal line to Point F.

Measure the distance from your shoulder to your elbow. From Point A draw a vertical line to Point G, to mark your elbow point.

Divide your elbow circumference by 2.

Formula: elbow circumference ÷ 2 = G to H

Starting from the centre fold line, Point G draw a horizontal line to Point H.

Divide your wrist circumference by 2.

Formula: wrist circumference ÷ 2 = C to I

Starting from the centre fold line, Point C draw a horizontal line to Point I.

Using your ruler, draw a diagonal line from Point F to Point I.

Mark the half way point between Point A and Point E which is your cap height.

Time to draw the sleeve cap. The top of the sleeve cap will form half of a semi-circle, so that when it’s unfolded the top of the sleeve cap will have a semi-circle shape.

The bottom half of the sleeve cap will also form a half semi-circle shape but it will be flipped so the curve is facing the inside of the sleeve.

You are almost there! This is what the basic sleeve block looks like without ease and without seam allowance.

Now you can add your desired seam allowance. Do not add seam allowance to the center fold as it marks the middle point of your pattern block.

Right now, both sides of the sleeve cap look exactly the same. However, the cap needs to have a different curvature at the front and back to accommodate the shape of the armhole.

The red line shows the change I made to the back section of the sleeve. The top half of the cap needs to drop slightly whilst the bottom half has a less pronounced curve. This to help the sleeve lay in position when sewn to the bodice.

Redraw your seam allowance lines.

Add notches that will help you clearly distinguish between the from and back back of the sleeve.

For the front, I added one notch.

For the back, I added two notches.

Sleeve block in action

Final Thoughts

Congrats! Happy to see you at the end! Thank you for following along. Sewing is not an exact science and there are many different ways to draft which will achieve a similar effect. The technique I showed you above is what works personally for me. Whilst I hope this tutorial will work for you, follow your intuition and do what works for you.

you’re welcome to reach out if you have any questions or leave a comment below.

Want to continue your self-drafting binge? Click HERE to see my skirt block tutorial.

Simply Sewing Feature Issue 100

Tammy Silver — Thu, 20 Oct 2022 07:50:57 +0000

Can you believe I’m back for another issue with Simply Sewing Magazine! First I showcased my quilted skirt tutorial in Issue 99 and now I’m sharing my velvet bag tutorial in Issue 100. This is a monumental moment for both myself and the mag.

October is Black History Month and this special edition featured an all black contributor line up. It was an absolute honour to be amongst my fellow black creators who shared their beautiful creations and insights.

I must discuss Rumana’s, The Little Pomegranate column which candidly discusses race and identity within the sewing community. Using Rumana’s words, she stats, “the sewing community is about celebrating our individuality and diversity“. Sewing is not only about “sewing”, it’s a microcosm of society, where matters of racism, ablism and inclusivity need to be approached in a nuanced way. It’s great to see steps being taken to making this a reality.

Visit my Lookbook to browse more of my creations and visit As Seen In to see my other features.

About Simply Sewing

Simply Sewing is a magazine designed for makers who sew, or would like to start sewing. Its fresh attitude and ideas, beautiful photography and inspiring projects will have you behind the sewing machine from the get-go! It’s beginner friendly and ideal how sewing looking to learn through simple projects.

Simply Sewing delivers a fantastic range of sewing patterns, from small quirky toys and accessories to larger projects such as bags, home furnishings and simple garments. Customising your own clothes and home makes, and touches of embroidery and appliqué are also included, together with fun features and profiles of celebrity stitchers and bloggers. Each issue also carries a gorgeous free gift!

If you’re interested, you can check out the mag HERE.

Simply sewing Issue 100

Contributors:

Carla Diogo, is a Bristol based pattern cutter and the creator of the Roxy Coat sewing pattern.
Ken Kweku Nimo, is a Ghanian designer and author of Africa in Fashion which is available on Amazon.
Alexis Bailey, is a creator who enjoys slow sustainable sewing.
Mister Larrie, is an arts and crafts enthusiast, follow him on Instagram to see all his amazing makes.

Velvet Bag

Simply Sewing Feature Issue 99

Tammy Silver — Thu, 08 Sep 2022 15:29:45 +0000

Hello dear sewists! I’m always happy to announce when I have another feature that comes through. This time it’s with Simply Sewing Magazine for their 99th Issue. In their latest issue you can follow my step by step tutorial and sew yourself a quilted skirt, ready for when autumn rolls in. I will let you in on a little secret… and tell you making this tutorial was also my very first time quilting! Which means I was also learning while teaching.

Visit my Lookbook to browse more of my creations and visit As Seen In to see my other features.

About Simply Sewing

If you’re interested, you can check out the mag HERE.

Simply Sewing Magazine, Issue 99

Quilted Skirt

10K Midi Skirt

Tammy Silver — Fri, 22 Jul 2022 10:00:00 +0000

10K Midi Skirt Tutorial

Welcome sewing friends, here is the tutorial for the 10K Midi Skirt PDF sewing pattern. Follow the step by step instructions below as you are working on your project. I’m always happy to help, should you have any questions. You can email me or connect on Instagram.

Buy Pattern

Tools you will need:

Main fabric
Lining fabric
Light-weight iron-on Interfacing
8″ invisible zip
Ribbon
Single fold bias tape
Matching thread

Print and assemble the pattern, using tape or glue. Use scissors to cut out your size.

When cutting out the pattern on fabric, be sure to mark your notches and dart lines. You can do this by making small incisions into your fabric. Alternatively, you can use chalk or an erasable fabric pen to make your markings.

For directional print fabrics, all the pattern pieces need to face the same way.

Cut of the keyhole pattern piece on your interfacing.

Line up the interfacing to the keyhole cut out on the front skirt. Place the glue side of the interfacing on the wrong side of the front skirt.

Using the steam function on your iron, press the interfacing until it is fully attached.

Depending on the pattern size you are using, the interfacing may be longer than the front skirt. If this is the case, trim the excess interfacing off the bottom.

Now your front skirt is ready to sew.

Cut two strips of ribbon, each 15 inches in length. Place each ribbon at the bottom of the keyhole, on either side. (See notches for reference).

Pin the ribbon in place on each side and baste stitch along the edge.

On the front skirt the ribbon will be sandwiched in between the main fabric and the lining fabric.

Place the main fabric and lining fabic right sides together. Match up the keyhole cut out so the notches align. Pin along the keyhole and sew using a ¼ inch / 0.5cm seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance toward the lining and understitch. This will secure the seam allowance to the lining fabric and prevent the lining from peaking through the outside of the skirt.

When understitching, try to get as close as you can to the corners of the keyhole.

Press the lining to the wrong side of the front skirt. Overlock or baste the lining to the front skirt.

Fold the back skirt right sides together. Pin in place and sew along the dart line.

Repeat this step for the second back skirt.

Press each dart towards the centre back line.

Position the left side of the zip on the left side of the back skirt, along the center back. Make sure the zipper teeth are facing away from the center back seam. Pin in place.

Change the sewing foot to an invisible zipper foot. Position the zipper foot right next to the zipper teeth. Sew from the top of the zip all the way down to the zipper stop.

Position the right side of the zip on the right side of the back skirt, along the center back. Make sure the zipper teeth are facing away from the center back seam. Pin in place, then sew.

Once the invisible zip is installed, you will need to close the center back seam.

Change the invisible zipper foot to a standard zipper foot. Place the back skirt right sides together. Sew from the end the zip to the bottom of the center back seam.

Make sure the bottom of the zip is positioned out of the way so it doesn’t get caught while sewing.

Press the center back seam apart.

Place the front skirt and the back skirt right sides together. Pin along both side seams and sew.

Interface the front and back facing pieces and overlock the raw edges.

Place the front and back facing right sides together. Pin in place and sew along the side seams.

Press the side seams apart.

Place the facing to the waistline of the skirt, right sides together. Make sure the side seams match. Pin in place, then sew.

Once the facing has been sewn unto the main skirt, press the seam allowance towards the facing.

Understitch the facing. This will secure the seam allowance to the facing and prevent the facing from peaking through the outside of the skirt.

Press the facing to the inside of the skirt.

To attach the back facing to the center back seam, bring the facing to the outside of the skirt and pin right sides together.

Sew along the center back seam, using a ¼ inch / 0.5 cm seam allowance.

Turn the facing back to the inside of your skirt and press flat.

Place the bias tape on the right side of the skirt and pin along the hem line.

Sew along the first crease line of the bias tape

Turn the bias tape to the wrong side of the skirt. Turn in the raw edge of the bias tape and sew along the second crease line.

Press the hem flat.

Finished!

Final thoughts

I’m glad you made it all the way to the end. I hope you cherish your new skirt and and that it will add some joy to your handmade wardrobe. I would love to see your make, use #10KMidiSkirt to share on Instagram.

Happy Sewing!

Tammy

The Petal Top featured in Sewing Bee

Tammy Silver — Sat, 25 Jun 2022 10:17:00 +0000

This is the most exciting news I’ve shared so far! Imagine my surprise when I turned on the TV and saw The Petal Top pattern bring used in the Great British Sewing Bee, Series 8.

Sewing Bee dress

The semi finals week took inspiration from Japanese culture. Their challenge for the Made to Measure was to create an origami inspired dress that included folds and pleats.

Brogan used The Petal Top as the base pattern for her garment, following my tutorial to hack the pattern into a dress. Her make is truly sensational and I’m glad she was able to make it to Sewing Bee finals with this dress!

History of the Petal Top

I made this dress back in 2019 for my friend’s wedding. This dress is truly dear to my heart as it’s my first ever self drafted make. This is one of my more unique ideas and I challenged myself to create something that perfectly expressed my personal style.

I created many fun memories while wearing this dress. I was overwhelmed by the amount of positive feedback I received that. Totally worth the hours and 400 sequins for make this look!

Read my blog post HERE to find out about the making process.

It was a no brainer to make this into my first sewing pattern. I adjusted the pattern to make it into a top so people could easily style it with their favourite pair of trousers or skirt.

This is my gorgeous friend modelling her top that has added floral embroidery. The ultimate statement piece for spring and summer.

Meet The Petal Dress!

You can view the full tutorial on how to hack The Petal Top into a dress HERE.

Love Sewing Feature Issue 105 and 106

Tammy Silver — Mon, 23 May 2022 08:22:56 +0000

Today I bring two features! In Issue 105 you can see my review of the Butterick’s 6722 pattern. In Issue 106, I share my hack of the Butterick 6677 pattern, where I provide a step-by-step tutorial on how you can achieve the same design.

I’m amazed to have received back to back features from a popular sewing mag. Visit my Lookbook to find out more about my creations.

About Love Sewing

Love Sewing is a UK based sewing magazine. Every issue includes a complimentary sewing pattern either from a big name brand or indie designers. There are lots of great projects to get stuck in and can be enjoyed by makers of all skill levels. You can improve your skills with a range of easy to follow step-by-step tutorials from leading designers and industry experts.

If you’re interested, you can check out the mag HERE.

Love Sewing Magazine, Issue 105

Love Sewing Magazine, Issue 106

How to sew an adjustable waistband

Tammy Silver — Fri, 22 Apr 2022 14:41:54 +0000

Adjustable Waistband Tutorial

This is a tutorial for View 1 and View 3 of the April Trousers pattern.

I will show you how to make the front wrap waistband adjustable. This will provide greater flexibility in your garment and allow you to adjust the fit easily without altering your trousers.

Cut out your D ring holder pattern piece.

Fold the D ring holder in half, right sides together and pin in place.

Sew using an 1/2 inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance down to a 1/4 inch to reduce the bulk.

Here you can use a loop turner to turn the fabric to the right side.

Press flat.

Wrap the fabric around both D rings, on the flat edge.

Pin the D ring holder on the side seam of your front trousers. Position this 7 inches from the waist seam.

The D ring needs to be placed on the opposite side of your wrap.

Place your front and back trousers right sides together. Your D ring holder will be sandwiched between the two layers.

Turn your trousers to the right side.

Place your wrap waistband through both D rings.

Sandwich the wrap waistband in-between the two D rings. Pull the end of the waistband to make it tighter.

April Trousers

Tammy Silver — Wed, 20 Apr 2022 20:48:22 +0000

April Trousers Tutorial

Welcome sewing friends, here is a tutorial of the April Trousers PDF sewing pattern. To sew View 1, follow the step by step instructions below as you are working on your project. This sew-along is pretty much the same for View 3, the shorts version. I’m always happy to help, should you have any questions. You can contact me or connect on Instagram.

Buy Pattern

Tools you will need:

Fabric
Lightweight iron-on Interfacing
7 or 8″ close-ended exposed zip
Button / Hook and bar

Print and assemble the pattern, using tape or glue. Use scissors to cut out your size.

Tip: use highlighter pen, to mark your size, this will help you to follow the lines better when cutting.

Place your fabric on the fold. Pin all your sewing pattern pieces in place and cut. Here you can overlock all your pattern pieces to stop the raw edges from fraying.

Add light-weight interfacing to the wrong side of the fly facing.

Place the fly facing on the left side of the front trouser, right sides together. Pin and sew.

Press the seam allowance towards the fly facing and understitch.

Place the front trouser pieces, right sides together.

Sew from the crotch to the bottom of the fly facing.

Take your front right trouser piece and fold the straight edge of the inside crotch 1 cm towards the wrong side.

On the left trouser, press the fly facing towards the wrong side.

Grab the fly guard pattern piece. You can interface this too.

Fold the fly guard right sides together and sew.

Trim the seam allowance down to 1⁄4 inch.

Turn it to the right side and press.

Place the right side of the zip on the straight edge of the fly guard, baste stitch the zip in place.

On the right trouser, place the zip next to the folded edge.

Top stitch along the edge of the fold.

Turn the front trousers to the wrong side. Pin your fly guard out of the way.

Then sew the zip to the fly facing, only sew through the fly facing layer. Do NOT sew through the front trousers.

Top stitch the fly facing on the left side of the front trousers. Follow the curved line and be sure to back stitch at the crotch seam to secure the fly front zipper.

Pin the front waistband pieces to the top of the trousers, right sides together.

Press the seam allowance towards the waistband.

Double hem the bottom of the front wrap.

Fold the hem 1⁄2 inch to the wrong side, then fold again 1⁄2 inch and top stitch.

Double hem the long edge of the front wrap.

Fold the hem 1⁄2 inch to the wrong side wrong side, then fold again 1⁄2 inch and top stitch.

Then press flat.

Turn the pocket hem 1⁄2 inch to the wrong side, then turn in again 1 inch and top stitch.

Turn the pockets sides 1⁄4 inch to the wrong side.

Press flat.

Position your pocket on the trouser wrap. Place the right edge of the pocket, 3 inches from the wrap edge.

This is a guideline and I advice you place your pocket in a position that is most comfortable for you.

Top stitch along the edge.

Pin the wrap waistband right sides together to the top of the front wrap.

Sew carefully along the curve.

Notch the seam allowance by cutting out small triangles, this will remove excess fabric around the curve.

Press the seam allowance towards the waistband.

On the top edge of the waistband fold in the raw edge 1/2 to the wrong side.

Fold the waistband in half and pin along the waist seam.

Stitch in the ditch to close the waistband.

This is what the waistband looks like on the wrong side.

Turn in the raw edges on the wrap waistband and top stitch.

Fold the back trousers right sides together and sew along the dart.

Repeat this step for the second trouser leg.

Sew the back trousers together along the crotch seam.

Press both darts towards the centre back seam

Place the back waistband on top of the back trouser, right sides together and sew.

Press the seam allowance towards the waistband.

Place the front wrap on top on the front trouser and baste stitch along the side seam.

Place the back and front trousers right sides together. Place the wrap waistband through the side seam (7 inches from the waist seam), adjust the length for a comfortable fit.

Pin and sew the side seams. Once sewn, trim the excess fabric from the wrap waistband.

Pin along the inseam legs.

Sew the inseam legs.

Turn the trousers right side out.

Use the fold line guidance on the pattern and fold the waistband in half.

On the front waistband, fold the waistband right sides together and pin in place.

Sew along the edge and trim the seam allowance to reduce the bulk at the seam.

Turn the waistband to the right side and press flat.

At this stage you can add your button and button hole or a hook and bar.

Fold in the raw edges of the waistband

Stitch in the ditch to finish the waistband.

Turn the trouser hem 2 inches up.

Top stitch the hem in place.

If you want an invisible hem, you can slip stitch the hem in place.

Final thoughts

Well, that’s amazing, you are now finished! I hope you will cherish your new make and will be a great addition to your handmade wardrobe. I would love to see your creation, use #AprilTrousers to share your makes on Instagram.

Happy Sewing,

Tammy

April Trousers Pattern

Tammy Silver — Tue, 12 Apr 2022 10:22:00 +0000

Tutorials and Resources

How to sew the April Trousers

Here are the step-by-step sewing instructions for View 1 of the April Trousers PDF pattern.

How to sew an adjustable wrap waistband

This is a tutorial on how to make the front wrap waistband adjustable.

How to draft a skirt block

Tammy Silver — Tue, 22 Mar 2022 07:11:00 +0000

Skirt block: How to start pattern drafting

A question I get asked often is “how do I make my own patterns?” The best place to start is with a skirt block because in my opinion its the simplest garment to construct. In this tutorial, I will show you how to draft the front and back of a basic skirt block, using your own measurements. Once your block is complete, you can then hack your pattern to sew any style you like.

Trust the process and go easy on yourself while you’re learning!

Tools you will need

Pattern paper
Measuring tape
Pencil
Ruler
(Optional) Frech curve; this is a curved ruler that is used to draw round shapes such as the hip area in a pattern. Personally, I don’t use this very often and you can definitely follow this tutorial without it.

Body measurements

Waist

Hips

Waist to hips

Skirt length

You probably would have noticed with shop-bought patterns, the instructions will say; “cut on the fold”. If a sewing pattern is the same on both sides, it can be divided in half along the centre and cut on the fold of your fabric. So after you’ve un-folded your fabric, you’ll end up with the full pattern piece. That’s why in this project you’ll be drafting half of your skirt pattern.

After you’ve drafted the skirt block, you can then add your sewing allowance.

Skirt block tutorial

On your pattern paper, mark your waist – Point A and draw a straight vertical line down to Point B. This is the length of your skirt.

Next, divide your waist measurement by 4.

Formula: waist ÷ 4 = A to C

Starting from Point A draw an horizontal line to Point C.

Measure the distance from your waist to hip and mark this (Point D) on your pattern paper.

Divide your hip measurement by 4.

Formula: hips ÷ 4 = D to E

Starting from Point D draw an horizontal line to Point E.

From your hip line, Point E draw a line down to Point F.

This line is directly parallel to your skirt length.

Straight skirts are fitted garments so I’ll add a small flare to allow for better movement.

Mark your hemline by drawing a line from Point B to Point G.

Point G is 2″ longer than point F. (This will provide additional ease for movement).

Using a French curve or ruler, draw a gentle curved line to connect Point C to Point E.

This line is the gradual shaping from your waist to hips.

From hip line, Point E, draw a diagonal line to your hemline, Point G.

On the side of your skirt, curve your hem by raising the them hem 1″ and gradually

Basic skirt block complete, now to add the seam allowance!

Once your basic skirt block is complete, add your desired sewing allowance. Do not add seam allowance to the center front as this pattern will be cut on the fold of your fabric.

For your back skirt block, add your desired seam allowance to the centre back. This is where your zip will go.

Skirt block in action

Final Thoughts

Yay, I’m so thrilled you made it to the end! Thank you for following along. Do reach out if you have any questions or leave a comment below.

Want to continue your self-drafting binge? Click HERE to see my bodice block tutorial.