Skirt block: How to start pattern drafting
A question I get asked often is “how do I make my own patterns?” The best place to start is with a skirt block because in my opinion its the simplest garment to construct. In this tutorial, I will show you how to draft the front and back of a basic skirt block, using your own measurements. Once your block is complete, you can then hack your pattern to sew any style you like.
Trust the process and go easy on yourself while you’re learning!
Tools you will need
- Pattern paper
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- Ruler
- (Optional) Frech curve; this is a curved ruler that is used to draw round shapes such as the hip area in a pattern. Personally, I don’t use this very often and you can definitely follow this tutorial without it.
Body measurements
Waist
Hips
Waist to hips
Skirt length
You probably would have noticed with shop-bought patterns, the instructions will say; “cut on the fold”. If a sewing pattern is the same on both sides, it can be divided in half along the centre and cut on the fold of your fabric. So after you’ve un-folded your fabric, you’ll end up with the full pattern piece. That’s why in this project you’ll be drafting half of your skirt pattern.
After you’ve drafted the skirt block, you can then add your sewing allowance.
Skirt block tutorial
On your pattern paper, mark your waist – Point A and draw a straight vertical line down to Point B. This is the length of your skirt.
Next, divide your waist measurement by 4.
Formula: waist ÷ 4 = A to C
Starting from Point A draw an horizontal line to Point C.
Measure the distance from your waist to hip and mark this (Point D) on your pattern paper.
Divide your hip measurement by 4.
Formula: hips ÷ 4 = D to E
Starting from Point D draw an horizontal line to Point E.
From your hip line, Point E draw a line down to Point F.
This line is directly parallel to your skirt length.
Straight skirts are fitted garments so I’ll add a small flare to allow for better movement.
Mark your hemline by drawing a line from Point B to Point G.
Point G is 2″ longer than point F. (This will provide additional ease for movement).
Using a French curve or ruler, draw a gentle curved line to connect Point C to Point E.
This line is the gradual shaping from your waist to hips.
From hip line, Point E, draw a diagonal line to your hemline, Point G.
On the side of your skirt, curve your hem by raising the them hem 1″ and gradually
Basic skirt block complete, now to add the seam allowance!
Once your basic skirt block is complete, add your desired sewing allowance. Do not add seam allowance to the center front as this pattern will be cut on the fold of your fabric.
For your back skirt block, add your desired seam allowance to the centre back. This is where your zip will go.
Skirt block in action
Final Thoughts
Yay, I’m so thrilled you made it to the end! Thank you for following along. Do reach out if you have any questions or leave a comment below.
Want to continue your self-drafting binge? Click HERE to see my bodice block tutorial.
Bsun
No waist darts?
Tammy Silver
Hi, not all skirts need darts and it depends on the wearer’s body shape. This is a tutorial on how to sew the most basic type of skirt for beginner’s who are getting into pattern drafting 🙂
Jenny
Very well explained. You made sewing so easy.
Thank you💚
Tammy Silver
That’s great Jenny, glad you found it useful!