Pattern Drafting – Tammy Silver

How to draft a sleeve block

Tammy Silver — Wed, 22 Feb 2023 15:16:23 +0000

Sleeve block: How to start pattern drafting

As part of my pattern drafting series, I continue with a sleeve tutorial. I will show you how to draft a sleeve pattern from from scratch using your own body measurements. Creating your own blocks are a great way to ensure your garments fits you perfectly. Once your block is complete, you can then hack your pattern to sew any style you like.

Remember learning something for the first time can be tricky, but enjoy the process!

Tools you will need

Pattern paper
Measuring tape
Pencil
Ruler
(Optional) Frech curve; this is a curved ruler that is used to draw round shapes such as the sleeve cap area in a pattern. Personally, I don’t use this very often and you can definitely follow this tutorial without it.

Body measurements

Shoulder to elbow

Bicep circumference

Shoulder to wrist

Wrist circumference

Note: I use this as my wrist measurement so when I sew my sleeves, it will fit through my hand.

Before you start

You probably would have noticed with shop-bought patterns, the instructions will say; “cut on the fold”. If a sewing pattern is the same on both sides, it can be divided in half lengthwise along the centre and cut on the fold of your fabric. So after you’ve un-folded your fabric, you’ll end up with the full pattern piece.

In this project, you will start by drafting the sleeve block on the fold. Once the pattern is completed, you will then make small adjustments to the sleeve cap. This is because the shape for the front and back sleeve will have a different curvature to accommodate the slope on your shoulder area.

This block is a fitted sleeve pattern designed for non-stretch fabrics. Pattern ease is not included in this tutorial and the sleeve will therefore fit very closely to the arm. Once the block is complete, you can then add ease or adjust to suit stretch fabrics.

After you’ve drafted the sleeve block, you can then add your sewing allowance.

Sleeve block tutorial

On your pattern paper, mark your shoulder – Point A and draw a straight horizontal line to Point B. The length of this line is your bicep circumference.

Next, measure the distance from your shoulder to your wrist. From Point A draw a vertical line to Point C, this is your sleeve length.

Draw a horizontal line from Point C to Point D to mark the wrist. For now, this line is the same length as Point A to Point B.

The Cap Height of the sleeve is the distance from the shoulder to the base of the underarm. Measure this distance, then draw a vertical line from Point A down to Point E.

Next, divide your bicep circumference by 2.

Formula: bicep circumference ÷ 2 = E to F

Starting from the centre fold line, Point E draw a horizontal line to Point F.

Measure the distance from your shoulder to your elbow. From Point A draw a vertical line to Point G, to mark your elbow point.

Divide your elbow circumference by 2.

Formula: elbow circumference ÷ 2 = G to H

Starting from the centre fold line, Point G draw a horizontal line to Point H.

Divide your wrist circumference by 2.

Formula: wrist circumference ÷ 2 = C to I

Starting from the centre fold line, Point C draw a horizontal line to Point I.

Using your ruler, draw a diagonal line from Point F to Point I.

Mark the half way point between Point A and Point E which is your cap height.

Time to draw the sleeve cap. The top of the sleeve cap will form half of a semi-circle, so that when it’s unfolded the top of the sleeve cap will have a semi-circle shape.

The bottom half of the sleeve cap will also form a half semi-circle shape but it will be flipped so the curve is facing the inside of the sleeve.

You are almost there! This is what the basic sleeve block looks like without ease and without seam allowance.

Now you can add your desired seam allowance. Do not add seam allowance to the center fold as it marks the middle point of your pattern block.

Right now, both sides of the sleeve cap look exactly the same. However, the cap needs to have a different curvature at the front and back to accommodate the shape of the armhole.

The red line shows the change I made to the back section of the sleeve. The top half of the cap needs to drop slightly whilst the bottom half has a less pronounced curve. This to help the sleeve lay in position when sewn to the bodice.

Redraw your seam allowance lines.

Add notches that will help you clearly distinguish between the from and back back of the sleeve.

For the front, I added one notch.

For the back, I added two notches.

Sleeve block in action

Final Thoughts

Congrats! Happy to see you at the end! Thank you for following along. Sewing is not an exact science and there are many different ways to draft which will achieve a similar effect. The technique I showed you above is what works personally for me. Whilst I hope this tutorial will work for you, follow your intuition and do what works for you.

you’re welcome to reach out if you have any questions or leave a comment below.

Want to continue your self-drafting binge? Click HERE to see my skirt block tutorial.

How to draft a skirt block

Tammy Silver — Tue, 22 Mar 2022 07:11:00 +0000

Skirt block: How to start pattern drafting

A question I get asked often is “how do I make my own patterns?” The best place to start is with a skirt block because in my opinion its the simplest garment to construct. In this tutorial, I will show you how to draft the front and back of a basic skirt block, using your own measurements. Once your block is complete, you can then hack your pattern to sew any style you like.

Trust the process and go easy on yourself while you’re learning!

Tools you will need

Pattern paper
Measuring tape
Pencil
Ruler
(Optional) Frech curve; this is a curved ruler that is used to draw round shapes such as the hip area in a pattern. Personally, I don’t use this very often and you can definitely follow this tutorial without it.

Body measurements

Waist

Hips

Waist to hips

Skirt length

You probably would have noticed with shop-bought patterns, the instructions will say; “cut on the fold”. If a sewing pattern is the same on both sides, it can be divided in half along the centre and cut on the fold of your fabric. So after you’ve un-folded your fabric, you’ll end up with the full pattern piece. That’s why in this project you’ll be drafting half of your skirt pattern.

After you’ve drafted the skirt block, you can then add your sewing allowance.

Skirt block tutorial

On your pattern paper, mark your waist – Point A and draw a straight vertical line down to Point B. This is the length of your skirt.

Next, divide your waist measurement by 4.

Formula: waist ÷ 4 = A to C

Starting from Point A draw an horizontal line to Point C.

Measure the distance from your waist to hip and mark this (Point D) on your pattern paper.

Divide your hip measurement by 4.

Formula: hips ÷ 4 = D to E

Starting from Point D draw an horizontal line to Point E.

From your hip line, Point E draw a line down to Point F.

This line is directly parallel to your skirt length.

Straight skirts are fitted garments so I’ll add a small flare to allow for better movement.

Mark your hemline by drawing a line from Point B to Point G.

Point G is 2″ longer than point F. (This will provide additional ease for movement).

Using a French curve or ruler, draw a gentle curved line to connect Point C to Point E.

This line is the gradual shaping from your waist to hips.

From hip line, Point E, draw a diagonal line to your hemline, Point G.

On the side of your skirt, curve your hem by raising the them hem 1″ and gradually

Basic skirt block complete, now to add the seam allowance!

Once your basic skirt block is complete, add your desired sewing allowance. Do not add seam allowance to the center front as this pattern will be cut on the fold of your fabric.

For your back skirt block, add your desired seam allowance to the centre back. This is where your zip will go.

Skirt block in action

Final Thoughts

Yay, I’m so thrilled you made it to the end! Thank you for following along. Do reach out if you have any questions or leave a comment below.

Want to continue your self-drafting binge? Click HERE to see my bodice block tutorial.

How to Draft a Bodice Block

Tammy Silver — Tue, 08 Dec 2020 09:40:00 +0000

Bodice Block: Introduction to pattern drafting

Have you ever heard of a method called freehand fashion? This is a method of sewing without using commercial patterns. This method will allow you to draft your bodice block directly onto your fabric and make your sewing process more efficient. Whilst this can be a daunting task at first, once you understand the basics of pattern drafting and garment construction, you will be drafting your own pattern blocks in no time. This method will enable you to create unique garments, designed to fit your body specifically and will save you time. Remember that saying: it’s easy when you know how, well I will show you how!

The measurements of the sewing patterns will be in inches. I will provide the formulas you need to calculate your pattern measurements. Pease use a seam allowance that is most suitable for you. I will be using 0.5 inch seam allowance.

Tammy's Sewing Patterns

Final Garment

Front Bodice

Back Bodice

Sewing Measurements

Here are all the body measurements you will need in order to draft a bodice block that is suited especially for your body. Take your exact body measurements and add your seam allowance depending on how fitted you want your top to be.

Back Shoulders

Arm Circumference

Bust

Armscye Depth

Shoulder to Waist

Waist

Neckline Depth

Neckline Width

Front Bodice Pattern

Fold your fabric or pattern paper in half

Draw a vertical line 2 inches from the fold (this will be your button placket)

A to B is your shoulder width ÷ 2

I.e my shoulder width is 15″

15 ÷ 2 = 7.5

(For me) A to B is 7.5″

B to D is your armscye depth + seam allowance

I.e my armscye depth is 8″

8 + 0.5 = 8.5

(For me) B to D is 8.5″

C to E is your bust width ÷ 4 + seam allowance

I.e. my bust is 33″

33 ÷ 4 + 0.5 = 8.75

(For me) C to E is 8.75″

A to G is your shoulder to waist measurement + seam allowance

I.e. my shoulder to waist is 16″

16 + 1 = 17

(For me) A to G is 17″

G to F is the same length as C to E

Connect E to F

This is your armhole to waist

Decide your neck width

Decide your neckline depth

Draw a diagonal line 0.5 inches from Point B, this will be your shoulder slope

Draw a curved line from B to E, this is your armhole

To get your dart height, measure your under bust to waist

Decide your dart width, this will depend of how fitted you want your top to be

The Front Bodice is complete!

STOP and congratulate yourself because you my friend are half way through! If you need some additional help understanding the process, drop me an email, I’m happy to shed more light on this method.

Back Bodice

Fold your fabric or pattern paper in half

H to I is your shoulder width ÷ 2

I to K is your armscye depth + seam allowance

J to L is your bust ÷ 4 + seam allowance

H to N is your shoulder to waist measurement + seam allowance

N to M is the same length as J to L

Connect L to M

This is your armhole to waist

Decide your neckline width and depth

Draw a diagonal line 0.5 inches from Point B, this will be your shoulder slope

Draw a curved line from I to L, this your armhole

The back bodice dart will be higher than your front bodice dart. Decide a height that is suitable for you

The Back Bodice is ready!

Final Thoughts

I’m so happy you made it to the end, great work. This can be a tricky technique to get your head around at first but with practice, you can achieve great results. If you are a bit hesitant, why not try creating a toile out of scrap fabric. Have fun and of course, enjoy wearing your self drafted top. It’s cheesy but true: Practice Makes Perfect.

Do you have any questions about this tutorial? Drop it in the comments below. I would love to hear your thoughts.