DIY – Tammy Silver

How to draft a sleeve block

Tammy Silver — Wed, 22 Feb 2023 15:16:23 +0000

Sleeve block: How to start pattern drafting

As part of my pattern drafting series, I continue with a sleeve tutorial. I will show you how to draft a sleeve pattern from from scratch using your own body measurements. Creating your own blocks are a great way to ensure your garments fits you perfectly. Once your block is complete, you can then hack your pattern to sew any style you like.

Remember learning something for the first time can be tricky, but enjoy the process!

Tools you will need

Pattern paper
Measuring tape
Pencil
Ruler
(Optional) Frech curve; this is a curved ruler that is used to draw round shapes such as the sleeve cap area in a pattern. Personally, I don’t use this very often and you can definitely follow this tutorial without it.

Body measurements

Shoulder to elbow

Bicep circumference

Shoulder to wrist

Wrist circumference

Note: I use this as my wrist measurement so when I sew my sleeves, it will fit through my hand.

Before you start

You probably would have noticed with shop-bought patterns, the instructions will say; “cut on the fold”. If a sewing pattern is the same on both sides, it can be divided in half lengthwise along the centre and cut on the fold of your fabric. So after you’ve un-folded your fabric, you’ll end up with the full pattern piece.

In this project, you will start by drafting the sleeve block on the fold. Once the pattern is completed, you will then make small adjustments to the sleeve cap. This is because the shape for the front and back sleeve will have a different curvature to accommodate the slope on your shoulder area.

This block is a fitted sleeve pattern designed for non-stretch fabrics. Pattern ease is not included in this tutorial and the sleeve will therefore fit very closely to the arm. Once the block is complete, you can then add ease or adjust to suit stretch fabrics.

After you’ve drafted the sleeve block, you can then add your sewing allowance.

Sleeve block tutorial

On your pattern paper, mark your shoulder – Point A and draw a straight horizontal line to Point B. The length of this line is your bicep circumference.

Next, measure the distance from your shoulder to your wrist. From Point A draw a vertical line to Point C, this is your sleeve length.

Draw a horizontal line from Point C to Point D to mark the wrist. For now, this line is the same length as Point A to Point B.

The Cap Height of the sleeve is the distance from the shoulder to the base of the underarm. Measure this distance, then draw a vertical line from Point A down to Point E.

Next, divide your bicep circumference by 2.

Formula: bicep circumference ÷ 2 = E to F

Starting from the centre fold line, Point E draw a horizontal line to Point F.

Measure the distance from your shoulder to your elbow. From Point A draw a vertical line to Point G, to mark your elbow point.

Divide your elbow circumference by 2.

Formula: elbow circumference ÷ 2 = G to H

Starting from the centre fold line, Point G draw a horizontal line to Point H.

Divide your wrist circumference by 2.

Formula: wrist circumference ÷ 2 = C to I

Starting from the centre fold line, Point C draw a horizontal line to Point I.

Using your ruler, draw a diagonal line from Point F to Point I.

Mark the half way point between Point A and Point E which is your cap height.

Time to draw the sleeve cap. The top of the sleeve cap will form half of a semi-circle, so that when it’s unfolded the top of the sleeve cap will have a semi-circle shape.

The bottom half of the sleeve cap will also form a half semi-circle shape but it will be flipped so the curve is facing the inside of the sleeve.

You are almost there! This is what the basic sleeve block looks like without ease and without seam allowance.

Now you can add your desired seam allowance. Do not add seam allowance to the center fold as it marks the middle point of your pattern block.

Right now, both sides of the sleeve cap look exactly the same. However, the cap needs to have a different curvature at the front and back to accommodate the shape of the armhole.

The red line shows the change I made to the back section of the sleeve. The top half of the cap needs to drop slightly whilst the bottom half has a less pronounced curve. This to help the sleeve lay in position when sewn to the bodice.

Redraw your seam allowance lines.

Add notches that will help you clearly distinguish between the from and back back of the sleeve.

For the front, I added one notch.

For the back, I added two notches.

Sleeve block in action

Final Thoughts

Congrats! Happy to see you at the end! Thank you for following along. Sewing is not an exact science and there are many different ways to draft which will achieve a similar effect. The technique I showed you above is what works personally for me. Whilst I hope this tutorial will work for you, follow your intuition and do what works for you.

you’re welcome to reach out if you have any questions or leave a comment below.

Want to continue your self-drafting binge? Click HERE to see my skirt block tutorial.

How to draft a skirt block

Tammy Silver — Tue, 22 Mar 2022 07:11:00 +0000

Skirt block: How to start pattern drafting

A question I get asked often is “how do I make my own patterns?” The best place to start is with a skirt block because in my opinion its the simplest garment to construct. In this tutorial, I will show you how to draft the front and back of a basic skirt block, using your own measurements. Once your block is complete, you can then hack your pattern to sew any style you like.

Trust the process and go easy on yourself while you’re learning!

Tools you will need

Pattern paper
Measuring tape
Pencil
Ruler
(Optional) Frech curve; this is a curved ruler that is used to draw round shapes such as the hip area in a pattern. Personally, I don’t use this very often and you can definitely follow this tutorial without it.

Body measurements

Waist

Hips

Waist to hips

Skirt length

You probably would have noticed with shop-bought patterns, the instructions will say; “cut on the fold”. If a sewing pattern is the same on both sides, it can be divided in half along the centre and cut on the fold of your fabric. So after you’ve un-folded your fabric, you’ll end up with the full pattern piece. That’s why in this project you’ll be drafting half of your skirt pattern.

After you’ve drafted the skirt block, you can then add your sewing allowance.

Skirt block tutorial

On your pattern paper, mark your waist – Point A and draw a straight vertical line down to Point B. This is the length of your skirt.

Next, divide your waist measurement by 4.

Formula: waist ÷ 4 = A to C

Starting from Point A draw an horizontal line to Point C.

Measure the distance from your waist to hip and mark this (Point D) on your pattern paper.

Divide your hip measurement by 4.

Formula: hips ÷ 4 = D to E

Starting from Point D draw an horizontal line to Point E.

From your hip line, Point E draw a line down to Point F.

This line is directly parallel to your skirt length.

Straight skirts are fitted garments so I’ll add a small flare to allow for better movement.

Mark your hemline by drawing a line from Point B to Point G.

Point G is 2″ longer than point F. (This will provide additional ease for movement).

Using a French curve or ruler, draw a gentle curved line to connect Point C to Point E.

This line is the gradual shaping from your waist to hips.

From hip line, Point E, draw a diagonal line to your hemline, Point G.

On the side of your skirt, curve your hem by raising the them hem 1″ and gradually

Basic skirt block complete, now to add the seam allowance!

Once your basic skirt block is complete, add your desired sewing allowance. Do not add seam allowance to the center front as this pattern will be cut on the fold of your fabric.

For your back skirt block, add your desired seam allowance to the centre back. This is where your zip will go.

Skirt block in action

Final Thoughts

Yay, I’m so thrilled you made it to the end! Thank you for following along. Do reach out if you have any questions or leave a comment below.

Want to continue your self-drafting binge? Click HERE to see my bodice block tutorial.

How to Sew a Button Blouse

Tammy Silver — Mon, 21 Dec 2020 12:30:00 +0000

Hello There

Welcome to my step by step blouse tutorial. If you are interested in how I made the bodice block for this blouse, be sure to check out my pattern drafting tutorial here.

Tammy's Tools

Ruler, fabric scissors, tape measure and chalk

Fabric, elastic, buttons, thread and bias binding

Tammy's Tutorial

Sew the front bodice darts, then attach the peplum

Sew the back bodice darts, then attach the peplum

Sew the front and back bodice at the side and shoulder seams

Here is what the garment looks like on the inside. Be sure to press the darts flat

Cut out your sleeve pattern

Cut your elastic the length of your arm circumference. Sew the elastic on the wrong side fo the fabric, 4 inches from the sleeve hem. Gently pull on the elastic as you sew in order to create a gathering effect.

This is what the sleeves will look like on the right side. I also gathered the top of the sleeves

Sew the sleeves together at the side seams then attach the sleeves to the bodice armhole

Finish the neckline, sleeve hem and peplum hem with bias binding. Then create the button placket by sewing a double hem. You can add interfacing for more stability

Sew the button holes according the size of your buttons

Sew in your buttons

The blouse is finished!

Finished Blouse

Final Thoughts

There you have it, thank you for following along. I hope you have found this tutorial useful!

Do you have any questions about this tutorial? Drop it in the comments below. I would love to hear your thoughts.

How to Draft a Bodice Block

Tammy Silver — Tue, 08 Dec 2020 09:40:00 +0000

Bodice Block: Introduction to pattern drafting

Have you ever heard of a method called freehand fashion? This is a method of sewing without using commercial patterns. This method will allow you to draft your bodice block directly onto your fabric and make your sewing process more efficient. Whilst this can be a daunting task at first, once you understand the basics of pattern drafting and garment construction, you will be drafting your own pattern blocks in no time. This method will enable you to create unique garments, designed to fit your body specifically and will save you time. Remember that saying: it’s easy when you know how, well I will show you how!

The measurements of the sewing patterns will be in inches. I will provide the formulas you need to calculate your pattern measurements. Pease use a seam allowance that is most suitable for you. I will be using 0.5 inch seam allowance.

Tammy's Sewing Patterns

Final Garment

Front Bodice

Back Bodice

Sewing Measurements

Here are all the body measurements you will need in order to draft a bodice block that is suited especially for your body. Take your exact body measurements and add your seam allowance depending on how fitted you want your top to be.

Back Shoulders

Arm Circumference

Bust

Armscye Depth

Shoulder to Waist

Waist

Neckline Depth

Neckline Width

Front Bodice Pattern

Fold your fabric or pattern paper in half

Draw a vertical line 2 inches from the fold (this will be your button placket)

A to B is your shoulder width ÷ 2

I.e my shoulder width is 15″

15 ÷ 2 = 7.5

(For me) A to B is 7.5″

B to D is your armscye depth + seam allowance

I.e my armscye depth is 8″

8 + 0.5 = 8.5

(For me) B to D is 8.5″

C to E is your bust width ÷ 4 + seam allowance

I.e. my bust is 33″

33 ÷ 4 + 0.5 = 8.75

(For me) C to E is 8.75″

A to G is your shoulder to waist measurement + seam allowance

I.e. my shoulder to waist is 16″

16 + 1 = 17

(For me) A to G is 17″

G to F is the same length as C to E

Connect E to F

This is your armhole to waist

Decide your neck width

Decide your neckline depth

Draw a diagonal line 0.5 inches from Point B, this will be your shoulder slope

Draw a curved line from B to E, this is your armhole

To get your dart height, measure your under bust to waist

Decide your dart width, this will depend of how fitted you want your top to be

The Front Bodice is complete!

STOP and congratulate yourself because you my friend are half way through! If you need some additional help understanding the process, drop me an email, I’m happy to shed more light on this method.

Back Bodice

Fold your fabric or pattern paper in half

H to I is your shoulder width ÷ 2

I to K is your armscye depth + seam allowance

J to L is your bust ÷ 4 + seam allowance

H to N is your shoulder to waist measurement + seam allowance

N to M is the same length as J to L

Connect L to M

This is your armhole to waist

Decide your neckline width and depth

Draw a diagonal line 0.5 inches from Point B, this will be your shoulder slope

Draw a curved line from I to L, this your armhole

The back bodice dart will be higher than your front bodice dart. Decide a height that is suitable for you

The Back Bodice is ready!

Final Thoughts

I’m so happy you made it to the end, great work. This can be a tricky technique to get your head around at first but with practice, you can achieve great results. If you are a bit hesitant, why not try creating a toile out of scrap fabric. Have fun and of course, enjoy wearing your self drafted top. It’s cheesy but true: Practice Makes Perfect.

Do you have any questions about this tutorial? Drop it in the comments below. I would love to hear your thoughts.

Denim Utility Vest

Tammy Silver — Sat, 07 Nov 2020 22:58:00 +0000

Welcome Friends, I’m excited to share with you all the process of creating my denim utility vest. The vest is fully lined with a total of 7 pockets. Although they’re a lot of tricky parts in this sewing project, follow along and I’m sure you’ll get the confidence to sew your very own. Learning to sew is a fun and engaging activity. Join me on this fun journey to learn to make your own clothes and wear.

I bought this denim fabric from Shepherd’s Bush for £6.50 per meter. I did the acid wash myself using varying levels of concentrated bleach to achieve different shades of blue. Afterwards I popped the denim in the wash. Once it dried the denim became very creased so I ironed it before cutting.

At first I wasn’t really a big fan of sketching out my designs before making my garments but I now find that it helps me to focus my ideas and not change my mind half way through the project

Tammy's Supplies

1.5 meters denim fabric

1 meter cotton lining

2 meters webbing

Side release buckle

Metal snap fasteners

8″ blue zip (2)

12″ chunky zip

This pattern I drafted myself using basic pattern blocks and adjusting it to my measurements.
The fabric is on the fold because I will need two of every pattern piece.

Sew the two back pieces together and top stitch.
I will be topstitching all my seams in this project – it’ll make the seams look neat and flat.

Attach the webbing to the buckle, then topstitch the webbing unto the back bodice.
I positioned the webbing 4″ from the armhole.

Cargo pockets

These are my two large pockets that I’ll place at the bottom half of the vest.
On my pockets I’ve marked with pink chalk where I will place my smaller pockets.

I cut a long strip of fabric 2″ wide which I will sew around the pockets to give it that 3D effect.

When you reach the corners, cut 1/2″ into the corner which will allow you to sew around the edge a lot easier.

Turn in the hem of the pocket.
I used 1.5″ for my hem allowance

Topstitching here is important because it will give the pocket definition and strength.

Checking my markings match the size of the pocket

Sew the smaller pockets unto the bigger pocket.

Pocket flap with 1″ of webbing.

Sew the flap directly above the pocket.

Topstitch the pocket flat to help it remain flat.

Measure the rise of your pockets and mark the area of your vest.

Sew the pocket unto the vest.

Topstitch the webbing above the pocket.

Right we’re getting there!
Bottom pockets are down with the metal snaps attached. I’ve also attached the zipper and I’ll cut it off later when I’m attaching the lining.

Mark the area for the top pocket.

Use the same process I showed you earlier to create the top pocket.

This non-functional pocket is so very cute.

Sew the pocket unto the marked area.

Front Utility Vest

Front vest complete. If you’ve come this far you my friend have done very well.

Back Utility Vest

Just to note – I used lightweight interfacing and iron it unto the wrong side of the fabric. This will give additional strength to the vest. Don’t worry, the interfacing will be concealed when the lining is attached.

Utility Vest Lining

Front lining pattern pieces

Sew together

Press the seams flat

Back lining pattern pieces

Sew together

Press the seams flat

For the lining: sew the front and back shoulders together.

Then attach the neckline of the main fabric with the neckline of the lining fabric – right sides together.

Topstitch the the seam making the seam allowance is facing the lining. Then press.

Finished neckline.

Attach the arm hole on the fabric to the arm hole of the lining. Check out this tutorial by Painted Layers if you need help.

Ok nearly there!
I sewed the hem of the lining with the hem of the vest (right sides together).
I left an opening of about 8″ so I can turn the vest the right way.
To finish the vest you can either hand stitch the hem or just top stitch the hem close (I did the latter).

Thank you for Reading!

I hope this tutorial has given you the confidence to sew your version of a utility vest. The techniques I’ve shown you will defo come in handy during your other projects as well.

What do you guys think? Drop me a comment below.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me through my email tammysilverclothing@hotmail.com or reach out on Instagram at tammy_silver

Sequin Party Dress

Tammy Silver — Thu, 05 Nov 2020 15:37:00 +0000

Behind the scenes... how to sew sequins

Hello friends, I initially didn’t intend to post the process of this dress on my blog so excuse the picture quality. I first uploaded the pictures on my insta stories and got a ton positive feedback and questions so I decided to talk about the process in more detail for those interested in created a similar look. Learning to sew is a fun and engaging process that allows you to create your own fashion look. Join me on this journey and learn to sew your own wear and clothes.

When I’m creating a complicated style or experimenting with a new technique, I always do a toile first which is basically a test garment.

I create my own patterns so I use the toile to work out how to construct the dress and make the necessary adjustments before I cut into my main fabric.

For the toil I’ve just used a cheap white cotton fabric I bought from Shepherd’s Bush for £1 a meter. You can used Calico, Muslin or any extra fabric you have lying around.

I cut the bottom into a scallop shape, measuring each scallop to make sure it’s equal. I will later re-attach the two pieces with the peplum sandwiched in between.

I’ve cut the peplum and I’m happy with the outcome on the toile.

Now the excitement begins! I’m satisfied with how the toile came out so I’ll now use the pattern to cut my fabric. I’m using 1.5 meters of Neoprene. I should have bought 2 meters really, but I was being cheap.

Scallop bottom

Peplum

Installing the zipper For my Sequin Dress

I truly believe a dress without pockets is a crime against fashion. I hate it when I finish a dress then realise I had forgotten to sew pockets. I used a contrasting colour for the pockets because I like the pop of colour to peak through a little bit plus it matches my zipper.

I was ready to stop here to be honest. I had already started thinking of the best accessories to complete the look. I’m always scared of “going too far” but I my desgner’s intuition was telling me I needed something to made this dress POP.

I found these sequins on Ebay and bought a pack of every single colour, totalling 400 sequins which ended only being enough for the front of the dress.

I did play around with the positioning o the sequins, finally deciding to place it only on the peplum.
I used invisible thread to hand stitch each sequin one by one.

Several hours later… into sewing sequins

After putting the sequins on my dress, it was clear the pink heels was the winner. The 400 sequins wasn’t enough so I had to buy another 400 and I used that to complete the back peplum.

There you have it! My completed sequin dress. Thankfully the 1.5 meters of Neoprene was just about enough.

What do you guys think? Drop me a comment below.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me through my email tammysilverclothing@hotmail.com or reach out on Instagram at tammy_silver

Sewing Room Makeover

Tammy Silver — Tue, 03 Nov 2020 18:04:00 +0000

Tammy Silver's Sewing Room Makeover

Welcome friends, I’m excited to share with you all the process of designing my own sewing space. Creating a sewing space for a small room is not an easy task! However with inspiration from Pinterest, Instagram and Ikea, I was able to design something uniquely suited to me. I’m thrilled with the outcome and I hope you all will be encouraged to create a space you can call your own. Learning to sew is a fun and engaging activity, join me on this journey and learn to make your own clothes and wear.

Don’t ask me why I decided to paint my room hot pink, 15 year old me cannot remember what caused the lapse of judgement. Don’t get me wrong I love the colour pink but not for my bedroom walls. My entire setup felt claustrophobic and looked outdated. When I first start sewing in 2016, I used the dining room table in my kitchen. When sewing moved from a hobby to a full-time venture, I needed a room fully dedicated to my craft.

I stripped my room completely, said goodbye to my bed, desk and carpet. I had a new carpet fitted after my room was painted. This is the finished product. My room felt light, airy and dare I say it – spacious. My best advice to you is to choose colours you will enjoy for a long time and if that happens to be hot pink, go for it!

Top layer paint – Dulux Frosted Steel
Bottom layer paint – Dulux Coastal Grey

Tammy’s Sewing Machine

My beloved Juki 8700. This is my first ever industrial sewing machine. Before this I had the Janome 2032 and before that I had the Brother LS14, so this Juki is quite a step up. I thought using an industrial machine would be really daunting to use but once the engineer explained everything to me and I had used it for a few hours, it turned out to to be a pretty intuitive process.

I had wanted a pegboard since forever. I did contemplate making my own pegboard, but that was way too much effort. What I have now are 2 separate pegboards (56cm by 56cm) placed side by side. All the accessories such as hooks, shelves and containers can all be purchased from Ikea’s Skadis range.

Above my pegboard are my art works. The Banksy playing cards I got from my holiday in San Fancisco at the Museum of Mordern Art. I’ve been a fan of his work since I was in secondary school. They’re not original pieces but it’s as close as I will get to the real thing.

The illustrations above the playing cards are my own handiwork. I created these for my final year project at uni. The illustrations are depictions of Egungun masquerades that perform at festivals in Nigeria. I’m very proud of this work because it reminds me of my creative capabilities.

A clothes rail was a must for me. Here is where I store fabrics that are not suitable for folding such as velvet. I also hang my sewing patterns and my client’s garments, ready for collection.

Now to a full view of my sewing space. Beside my rail is my grey ottoman that doubles as a storage and a seat. On top of my ottoman are cushions that I made myself with fabric I got from Ikea for £5 per meter. You’ll only need 1 meter of fabric if you want to sew two 12 by 12 inch cushions. You’ll need an additional 2 meters if your’e thinking of sewing matching curtains. For that personalised touch, I always advise incorporating your own creations into your sewing space, it makes for a more fun and welcoming environment.

The bottom compartment from left to right stores my Janome 2032 sewing machine, my Singer s14 – 78 overlocker and Curver knit basket which houses the pedals for both my machines.

In the middle compartment is where I store all fabrics. I have quite a healthy collection consisting of Ankara wax prints, suiting fabrics and organza.

With my small space I really couldn’t have a cutting table permanently out. I tried for a while cutting on the floor but but after long sewing projects it would hurt my back and knees. A wall mounted table was the best solution. I can bring it out when I needed it and fold it away to have more space. I had my cutting table custom made by a carpenter and painted it to match the decor in my room.

Tammy’s Cutting Table

There you have it! My completed sewing room. As you can see I wasn’t lying when I said my room was small but I love every inch of it

What do you guys think? Drop me a comment below.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me through my email tammysilverclothing@hotmail.com or reach out on Instagram at tammy_silver