Bodice Block: Introduction to pattern drafting
Have you ever heard of a method called freehand fashion? This is a method of sewing without using commercial patterns. This method will allow you to draft your bodice block directly onto your fabric and make your sewing process more efficient. Whilst this can be a daunting task at first, once you understand the basics of pattern drafting and garment construction, you will be drafting your own pattern blocks in no time. This method will enable you to create unique garments, designed to fit your body specifically and will save you time. Remember that saying: it’s easy when you know how, well I will show you how!
The measurements of the sewing patterns will be in inches. I will provide the formulas you need to calculate your pattern measurements. Pease use a seam allowance that is most suitable for you. I will be using 0.5 inch seam allowance.
Tammy's Sewing Patterns
Final Garment
Front Bodice
Back Bodice
Sewing Measurements
Here are all the body measurements you will need in order to draft a bodice block that is suited especially for your body. Take your exact body measurements and add your seam allowance depending on how fitted you want your top to be.
Back Shoulders
Arm Circumference
Bust
Armscye Depth
Shoulder to Waist
Waist
Neckline Depth
Neckline Width
Front Bodice Pattern
Fold your fabric or pattern paper in half
Draw a vertical line 2 inches from the fold (this will be your button placket)
A to B is your shoulder width ÷ 2
I.e my shoulder width is 15″
15 ÷ 2 = 7.5
(For me) A to B is 7.5″
B to D is your armscye depth + seam allowance
I.e my armscye depth is 8″
8 + 0.5 = 8.5
(For me) B to D is 8.5″
C to E is your bust width ÷ 4 + seam allowance
I.e. my bust is 33″
33 ÷ 4 + 0.5 = 8.75
(For me) C to E is 8.75″
A to G is your shoulder to waist measurement + seam allowance
I.e. my shoulder to waist is 16″
16 + 1 = 17
(For me) A to G is 17″
G to F is the same length as C to E
Connect E to F
This is your armhole to waist
Decide your neck width
Decide your neckline depth
Draw a diagonal line 0.5 inches from Point B, this will be your shoulder slope
Draw a curved line from B to E, this is your armhole
To get your dart height, measure your under bust to waist
Decide your dart width, this will depend of how fitted you want your top to be
The Front Bodice is complete!
STOP and congratulate yourself because you my friend are half way through! If you need some additional help understanding the process, drop me an email, I’m happy to shed more light on this method.
Back Bodice
Fold your fabric or pattern paper in half
H to I is your shoulder width ÷ 2
I to K is your armscye depth + seam allowance
J to L is your bust ÷ 4 + seam allowance
H to N is your shoulder to waist measurement + seam allowance
N to M is the same length as J to L
Connect L to M
This is your armhole to waist
Decide your neckline width and depth
Draw a diagonal line 0.5 inches from Point B, this will be your shoulder slope
Draw a curved line from I to L, this your armhole
The back bodice dart will be higher than your front bodice dart. Decide a height that is suitable for you
The Back Bodice is ready!
Final Thoughts
I’m so happy you made it to the end, great work. This can be a tricky technique to get your head around at first but with practice, you can achieve great results. If you are a bit hesitant, why not try creating a toile out of scrap fabric. Have fun and of course, enjoy wearing your self drafted top. It’s cheesy but true: Practice Makes Perfect.
Do you have any questions about this tutorial? Drop it in the comments below. I would love to hear your thoughts.
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Tammy Silver
Hi, you are most welcome to head over to tammysilver.com/contact/ and drop a message there
Harlean
This popped in my Google feed and so glad it did because I started drafting several bodice blocks last week and got stuck because there were so many measurements. This sounds a lot simpler. I will definitely try this week. Thank you for the simplicity.
Tammy Silver
Hi Harlean, I’m so happy you came across my blog! Hopefully this is the tutorial you need to draft the ultimate bodice block. Don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions.
Hawa Issaka
I really like what you are doing and would like to learn more. Please do you teach online lessons on sewing with videos.
Tammy Silver
Hiya, I have video tutorials on my Instagram and TikTok. If you have something in particular you would like to learn, you can pop in your suggestion here. Thanks!
BibbityBobbitySew
Love your insta stories.
Can you tell me more about the drawing of the sleeves? I definitely want sleeves in my bodice. Thanks 🙏🏻 can you help me?
Tammy Silver
Hello, thanks so much for looking through this tutorial. I will definitely look into sharing a tutorial on how to draft sleeves. I will most likely share the tutorial on my Instagram first, so be sure to continue to follow!
Priya
Thank you for this well explained tutorial! I’m looking forward to trying my hand at this now.
Tammy Silver
Yay, how exciting! thank you for taking the time out to read this blog post, it is much appreciated
Amrita
Love this tutorial and how detailed it is! I’ll have to give it a try, love made to measure steps! Thanks!!
Tammy Silver
Hiya, I’m so glad you found it useful. I’d be great if you gave it a try, you will surprise yourself with this challenge! x