Sewing Pattern Instructions – Tammy Silver

10K Midi Skirt

Tammy Silver — Fri, 22 Jul 2022 10:00:00 +0000

10K Midi Skirt Tutorial

Welcome sewing friends, here is the tutorial for the 10K Midi Skirt PDF sewing pattern. Follow the step by step instructions below as you are working on your project. I’m always happy to help, should you have any questions. You can email me or connect on Instagram.

Buy Pattern

Tools you will need:

Main fabric
Lining fabric
Light-weight iron-on Interfacing
8″ invisible zip
Ribbon
Single fold bias tape
Matching thread

Print and assemble the pattern, using tape or glue. Use scissors to cut out your size.

When cutting out the pattern on fabric, be sure to mark your notches and dart lines. You can do this by making small incisions into your fabric. Alternatively, you can use chalk or an erasable fabric pen to make your markings.

For directional print fabrics, all the pattern pieces need to face the same way.

Cut of the keyhole pattern piece on your interfacing.

Line up the interfacing to the keyhole cut out on the front skirt. Place the glue side of the interfacing on the wrong side of the front skirt.

Using the steam function on your iron, press the interfacing until it is fully attached.

Depending on the pattern size you are using, the interfacing may be longer than the front skirt. If this is the case, trim the excess interfacing off the bottom.

Now your front skirt is ready to sew.

Cut two strips of ribbon, each 15 inches in length. Place each ribbon at the bottom of the keyhole, on either side. (See notches for reference).

Pin the ribbon in place on each side and baste stitch along the edge.

On the front skirt the ribbon will be sandwiched in between the main fabric and the lining fabric.

Place the main fabric and lining fabic right sides together. Match up the keyhole cut out so the notches align. Pin along the keyhole and sew using a ¼ inch / 0.5cm seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance toward the lining and understitch. This will secure the seam allowance to the lining fabric and prevent the lining from peaking through the outside of the skirt.

When understitching, try to get as close as you can to the corners of the keyhole.

Press the lining to the wrong side of the front skirt. Overlock or baste the lining to the front skirt.

Fold the back skirt right sides together. Pin in place and sew along the dart line.

Repeat this step for the second back skirt.

Press each dart towards the centre back line.

Position the left side of the zip on the left side of the back skirt, along the center back. Make sure the zipper teeth are facing away from the center back seam. Pin in place.

Change the sewing foot to an invisible zipper foot. Position the zipper foot right next to the zipper teeth. Sew from the top of the zip all the way down to the zipper stop.

Position the right side of the zip on the right side of the back skirt, along the center back. Make sure the zipper teeth are facing away from the center back seam. Pin in place, then sew.

Once the invisible zip is installed, you will need to close the center back seam.

Change the invisible zipper foot to a standard zipper foot. Place the back skirt right sides together. Sew from the end the zip to the bottom of the center back seam.

Make sure the bottom of the zip is positioned out of the way so it doesn’t get caught while sewing.

Press the center back seam apart.

Place the front skirt and the back skirt right sides together. Pin along both side seams and sew.

Interface the front and back facing pieces and overlock the raw edges.

Place the front and back facing right sides together. Pin in place and sew along the side seams.

Press the side seams apart.

Place the facing to the waistline of the skirt, right sides together. Make sure the side seams match. Pin in place, then sew.

Once the facing has been sewn unto the main skirt, press the seam allowance towards the facing.

Understitch the facing. This will secure the seam allowance to the facing and prevent the facing from peaking through the outside of the skirt.

Press the facing to the inside of the skirt.

To attach the back facing to the center back seam, bring the facing to the outside of the skirt and pin right sides together.

Sew along the center back seam, using a ¼ inch / 0.5 cm seam allowance.

Turn the facing back to the inside of your skirt and press flat.

Place the bias tape on the right side of the skirt and pin along the hem line.

Sew along the first crease line of the bias tape

Turn the bias tape to the wrong side of the skirt. Turn in the raw edge of the bias tape and sew along the second crease line.

Press the hem flat.

Finished!

Final thoughts

I’m glad you made it all the way to the end. I hope you cherish your new skirt and and that it will add some joy to your handmade wardrobe. I would love to see your make, use #10KMidiSkirt to share on Instagram.

Happy Sewing!

Tammy

How to sew an adjustable waistband

Tammy Silver — Fri, 22 Apr 2022 14:41:54 +0000

Adjustable Waistband Tutorial

This is a tutorial for View 1 and View 3 of the April Trousers pattern.

I will show you how to make the front wrap waistband adjustable. This will provide greater flexibility in your garment and allow you to adjust the fit easily without altering your trousers.

Cut out your D ring holder pattern piece.

Fold the D ring holder in half, right sides together and pin in place.

Sew using an 1/2 inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance down to a 1/4 inch to reduce the bulk.

Here you can use a loop turner to turn the fabric to the right side.

Press flat.

Wrap the fabric around both D rings, on the flat edge.

Pin the D ring holder on the side seam of your front trousers. Position this 7 inches from the waist seam.

The D ring needs to be placed on the opposite side of your wrap.

Place your front and back trousers right sides together. Your D ring holder will be sandwiched between the two layers.

Turn your trousers to the right side.

Place your wrap waistband through both D rings.

Sandwich the wrap waistband in-between the two D rings. Pull the end of the waistband to make it tighter.

April Trousers

Tammy Silver — Wed, 20 Apr 2022 20:48:22 +0000

April Trousers Tutorial

Welcome sewing friends, here is a tutorial of the April Trousers PDF sewing pattern. To sew View 1, follow the step by step instructions below as you are working on your project. This sew-along is pretty much the same for View 3, the shorts version. I’m always happy to help, should you have any questions. You can contact me or connect on Instagram.

Buy Pattern

Tools you will need:

Fabric
Lightweight iron-on Interfacing
7 or 8″ close-ended exposed zip
Button / Hook and bar

Print and assemble the pattern, using tape or glue. Use scissors to cut out your size.

Tip: use highlighter pen, to mark your size, this will help you to follow the lines better when cutting.

Place your fabric on the fold. Pin all your sewing pattern pieces in place and cut. Here you can overlock all your pattern pieces to stop the raw edges from fraying.

Add light-weight interfacing to the wrong side of the fly facing.

Place the fly facing on the left side of the front trouser, right sides together. Pin and sew.

Press the seam allowance towards the fly facing and understitch.

Place the front trouser pieces, right sides together.

Sew from the crotch to the bottom of the fly facing.

Take your front right trouser piece and fold the straight edge of the inside crotch 1 cm towards the wrong side.

On the left trouser, press the fly facing towards the wrong side.

Grab the fly guard pattern piece. You can interface this too.

Fold the fly guard right sides together and sew.

Trim the seam allowance down to 1⁄4 inch.

Turn it to the right side and press.

Place the right side of the zip on the straight edge of the fly guard, baste stitch the zip in place.

On the right trouser, place the zip next to the folded edge.

Top stitch along the edge of the fold.

Turn the front trousers to the wrong side. Pin your fly guard out of the way.

Then sew the zip to the fly facing, only sew through the fly facing layer. Do NOT sew through the front trousers.

Top stitch the fly facing on the left side of the front trousers. Follow the curved line and be sure to back stitch at the crotch seam to secure the fly front zipper.

Pin the front waistband pieces to the top of the trousers, right sides together.

Press the seam allowance towards the waistband.

Double hem the bottom of the front wrap.

Fold the hem 1⁄2 inch to the wrong side, then fold again 1⁄2 inch and top stitch.

Double hem the long edge of the front wrap.

Fold the hem 1⁄2 inch to the wrong side wrong side, then fold again 1⁄2 inch and top stitch.

Then press flat.

Turn the pocket hem 1⁄2 inch to the wrong side, then turn in again 1 inch and top stitch.

Turn the pockets sides 1⁄4 inch to the wrong side.

Press flat.

Position your pocket on the trouser wrap. Place the right edge of the pocket, 3 inches from the wrap edge.

This is a guideline and I advice you place your pocket in a position that is most comfortable for you.

Top stitch along the edge.

Pin the wrap waistband right sides together to the top of the front wrap.

Sew carefully along the curve.

Notch the seam allowance by cutting out small triangles, this will remove excess fabric around the curve.

Press the seam allowance towards the waistband.

On the top edge of the waistband fold in the raw edge 1/2 to the wrong side.

Fold the waistband in half and pin along the waist seam.

Stitch in the ditch to close the waistband.

This is what the waistband looks like on the wrong side.

Turn in the raw edges on the wrap waistband and top stitch.

Fold the back trousers right sides together and sew along the dart.

Repeat this step for the second trouser leg.

Sew the back trousers together along the crotch seam.

Press both darts towards the centre back seam

Place the back waistband on top of the back trouser, right sides together and sew.

Press the seam allowance towards the waistband.

Place the front wrap on top on the front trouser and baste stitch along the side seam.

Place the back and front trousers right sides together. Place the wrap waistband through the side seam (7 inches from the waist seam), adjust the length for a comfortable fit.

Pin and sew the side seams. Once sewn, trim the excess fabric from the wrap waistband.

Pin along the inseam legs.

Sew the inseam legs.

Turn the trousers right side out.

Use the fold line guidance on the pattern and fold the waistband in half.

On the front waistband, fold the waistband right sides together and pin in place.

Sew along the edge and trim the seam allowance to reduce the bulk at the seam.

Turn the waistband to the right side and press flat.

At this stage you can add your button and button hole or a hook and bar.

Fold in the raw edges of the waistband

Stitch in the ditch to finish the waistband.

Turn the trouser hem 2 inches up.

Top stitch the hem in place.

If you want an invisible hem, you can slip stitch the hem in place.

Final thoughts

Well, that’s amazing, you are now finished! I hope you will cherish your new make and will be a great addition to your handmade wardrobe. I would love to see your creation, use #AprilTrousers to share your makes on Instagram.

Happy Sewing,

Tammy

April Trousers Pattern

Tammy Silver — Tue, 12 Apr 2022 10:22:00 +0000

Tutorials and Resources

How to sew the April Trousers

Here are the step-by-step sewing instructions for View 1 of the April Trousers PDF pattern.

How to sew an adjustable wrap waistband

This is a tutorial on how to make the front wrap waistband adjustable.

The Petal Top

Tammy Silver — Thu, 20 May 2021 15:51:19 +0000

Hello there

Firstly, I’m super excited that you have decided to try my first sewing pattern! This is a new venture for me, so I’m grateful for the support along the way. My best advise is to follow the step by step instructions as you are working on your project. I’m always happy to help, should you have any questions. You can contact me via email or connect on Instagram.

Print out your PDF sewing pattern and assemble together using tape.

Using scissors, cut out your size. In total, there are four sewing pattern pieces.

Place your fabric on the fold. Pin all your sewing pattern pieces in place and cut.

Place your front and back upper top pieces right sides together. Pin the shoulders and side seams, then sew using a 1cm seam allowance.

Place your front and back lower top pieces right sides together. Pin the side seams and sew using a 1cm seam allowance.

Place your front and back peplum pieces right sides together. Pin the side seams and sew using a 1cm seam allowance.

Pin the upper top piece and peplum piece right sides together. Choose the longest stitch length on your sewing machine and baste this seam together.

Pin the lower top piece to the upper top piece right sides together, making sure to match the notches. Sew using a 1cm seam allowance.

This is what the top looks like on the inside.

This is what the top looks like on the outside.

You can finish all the raw edges by using bias tape. Place your bias on the right side of the neckline and sew.

Then turn your bias tape inside the neckline and top stitch. You can repeat this step for the armhole and hems.

Final thoughts

Well there you have it! I hope you have created a garment that you can cherish and will be a great addition to your handmade wardrobe. I would love to see all creations, use #thepetaltop to share your makes on Instagram.

Happy Sewing,

Tammy x